Yojana Summary

May 2024

Topic-1 : A Tapestry of Tradition: Weaves of India

Question : Examine the significance of India’s diverse weaving traditions within the broader context of the country’s cultural heritage and historical legacy.

A Land Steeped in Textile History

• Ancient art form dating back to Indus Valley Civilization (3300-1300 BCE)
• More than a craft – a cultural tradition passed down through generations
• Over 136 unique weaving styles across India
• Each weave with distinct design, technique, and cultural significance
• Natural fibers like cotton, silk, and wool

A Glimpse into Regional Weaves of India

Gujarat:

• Mashru: Lightweight cotton fabric known for its soft feel after washing.
• Patola: A magnificent silk saree crafted using complex dyeing and weaving techniques.
• Kachchh Shawls: Colorful shawls with intricate designs, made from wool or a wool and silk blend.

Rajasthan:

• Kota Doria: Lightweight and airy cotton fabric known for its grid-like pattern.
• Jaipuri Rajai: Quilts with vibrant and colorful designs.

Jammu and Kashmir:

• Kani Weave: An intricate and beautiful woolen shawl made on a wooden loom.
• Pashmina: Shalls and scarves made from fine and soft wool, known for their warmth and lightweight feel.

Uttar Pradesh:

• Kimkhab: Luxurious silk brocade fabric woven with gold and silver threads.
• Banarasi Silk Brocades: Heavy silk sarees featuring intricate gold and silver thread work.

Manipur:

• Wangkhei Phie: A traditional Manipuri saree made with colorful threads.
• Shapee Lanphee: A traditional dhoti worn by men in Manipur.

Karnataka:

• Ilkal: A heavy and durable saree made with cotton and silk threads.
• Mysore Silk: Luxurious sarees and garments made from lustrous and soft silk.

Karnataka:

• Ilkal Silk Weave: Characterized by vibrant colors, intricate geometric patterns, and a rich texture.
• Molkalmuru Silk Weave: Known for its delicate zari work and intricate designs inspired by nature.
• Patteda Anchu Sari Weave: A traditional five-yard sari with bold stripes and contrasting borders.
• Navalgund Durries: Handwoven rugs made from soft cotton, often featuring floral and geometric designs.
• Mysore Silk Weave: Luxurious saris and garments made from high-quality mulberry silk, known for their intricate gold work and vibrant colors.
• Udupi Sarees: Lightweight and comfortable saris made from cotton or silk, often featuring striped patterns and religious motifs.

Leh Ladakh:

• Challi-Woolen Weave: Warm and durable shawls and blankets made from sheep wool, often featuring bold colors and geometric patterns.

Punjab:

• Khes Weave: A versatile cloth made from cotton or a blend of cotton and wool, used for making garments, turbans, and household items.

Arunachal Pradesh:

• Singpho Weaving: Characterized by bold colors, geometric patterns, and the use of natural dyes.
• Pailbo Weaving: Known for its intricate designs inspired by nature and the use of silk and cotton threads.
• Mishmi Weaving: Traditional shawls and garments made from wool and yak hair, often featuring red and black stripes.
• Tuensung Shawls: Large, colorful shawls made from wool, worn by both men and women.
• Apatani Tsug-dul and Tsug-gdan: Unique garments worn by Apatani women, featuring intricate beadwork and embroidery.

Haryana:

• Panja Weave: A handwoven cloth made from cotton or wool, often featuring colorful stripes and checks.

Nagaland:

• Chakhesang Shawl: A traditional shawl worn by Chakhesang women, made from wool and adorned with cowrie shells and beads.
• Tsungkotepsu: A man’s ceremonial attire made from wool and yak hair, featuring intricate designs and bold colors.

Goa:

• Kunbi Weave: A handwoven cloth made from cotton, often featuring simple stripes and checks.

Assam:

• Gadu or Mirijim Weave: A traditional cloth made from muga silk, often featuring geometric patterns and bold colors.
• Bodo Weaving: Known for its intricate designs inspired by nature and the use of natural dyes.
• Eri Silk Weaving: A unique type of silk produced from cocoons of eri silkworms, used to make soft and lightweight garments.
• Muga Silk Weaving: A luxurious silk produced from cocoons of muga silkworms, known for its golden hue and durability.

Maharashtra:

• Himru Weave: A double ikat weave made from silk and cotton, featuring intricate geometric patterns and vibrant colors.
• Paithani Weave: Luxurious saris made from silk and gold threads, known for their intricate designs and vibrant colors.
• Ghongadi Weave: A versatile cloth made from cotton or silk, often featuring stripes and checks.
• Chinni Dhurries: Handwoven rugs made from recycled cloth scraps, featuring colorful patchwork designs.
• Karvath Kathi Sari Weaving: A traditional sari worn by women of the Kathi community, made from cotton and featuring intricate embroidery.

A look at four iconic weaves

Banarasi Silk Weaving:

• Symbolism: Opulence, elegance, celebration (Shringar)
• Design: Mughal-inspired motifs, metallic threads
• Significance: Weddings, festivals, prosperity

Kanchipuram Silk Weaving:

• Symbolism: Righteousness, duty (Dharma)
• Design: Rich texture, vibrant colors, zari borders
• Technique: Traditional pit looms, intergenerational knowledge

Paithani Weaving:

• Symbolism: Aspiration, spiritual elevation (Lakshya)
• Design: Intricate weave, vibrant colors, peacock motifs
• Technique: Pure silk, gold/silver threads, tapestry weaving

Patola Craft from Gujarat:

• Symbolism: World as one family (Vasudhaiva Kutumbakam)
• Design: Geometric patterns, double ikat technique
• Significance: Cultural diversity, communal harmony, human unity